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The Thread

Find stories to inspire you, ideas from people we admire and our expertise for a home well curated, a wardrobe well put together, a life well lived.

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Style notes: spring

Small tweaks can make the biggest impact when dressing for the new season. The Guardian’s Associate Editor (Fashion), Jess Cartner-Morley shares the style secrets we all need to know.

We favour timeless style over fast-fashion trends, but what key pieces are worth investing in this season, to update our wardrobes for spring?

A great sweater is the hero piece for the season. Your clothes should look after you at this time of year, and nothing beats the feel-good factor of a cosy knit. A generous silhouette in a soft neutral shade looks elegant and modern. If your budget will stretch, treat yourself to cashmere, or a cashmere and-wool mix. That delicious cloud-soft skin feel is a real pick-me-up on cold mornings. The other important piece of the puzzle is an outer layer that is stylish, as well as practical. In the first months of the year, your coat is the most visible element of your outfit, so make it part of your look. A lightweight trench, a longline parka or a structured jacket will look sharp and contemporary. It’s important that you feel like your best, most-stylish self when you’ve got your coat on – you will be wearing it a lot!

It’s January, but the spring collections are out. How do we make sure our wardrobes are ready for unpredictable British seasons and create a versatile transitional look?

A great styling hack that I spotted on my fashion-week travels is to wear your sweater as if it was a scarf, draped around your shoulders, over the rest of your outfit – or even over your coat. This is super easy to do and brings an instant dose of French-girl je ne sais quoi. Try switching up a twinset: wear a cardigan as your base layer tucked into jeans or trousers, with a matching, or tonal, sweater tied loosely around your neck.

Tell us about ‘proportion play’ – what is it, and how do we make it work for us?

The ‘rule of thirds’ is fashion’s favourite new buzz phrase. It sounds alarmingly like maths, but it’s dead simple. All it means is that an outfit that breaks one third of the way down your body, rather than halfway, is more flattering, because it will make your waist appear higher and your legs longer. You probably know this instinctively – when you look in the mirror and tuck the front of your blouse into your waistband, rather than letting it hang loose to hip level, you are following the rule of thirds.

What is a capsule wardrobe? Does it involve starting a wardrobe from scratch?

A capsule wardrobe is all about streamlining how you get dressed. It saves you time and reduces the margin of error by editing your wardrobe down to elements that work together every time. And it absolutely does not mean buying a new look from scratch, because the best place to start is by pulling out the go-to favourites in what you already own and building outfits around them. Here’s an example. If you have a pair of trousers and a blazer that you often wear with a cotton shirt in the daytime, adding a silk blouse to your wardrobe will give you an instant after-dark version of a look that you already feel confident in.

What about accessories? Which ones should we add in for maximum versatility?

Your best friend this season is a belt. A belt is a real gamechanger, because it is the one accessory that can change your silhouette. Try it cinching a longline knit with easy trousers and heeled boots or wear it over your coat – you will be amazed how much pep and dynamism it adds. I’d go for a simple, good-quality leather belt, with metal hardware for a pop of shine. And never, ever underestimate the power of a pair of earrings. Just a bold silver or gold hoop can elevate easy athleisure pieces into a polished outfit.

Thinking about wardrobe essentials, how can we recognise great quality and longevity that goes beyond the first couple of washes?

Nothing matters more than fabric. The great fashion designers begin designing their collections by picking out the right fabric. It is easy to be distracted by fancy details – I have a magpie eye, so I know how that feels. But take a look in your wardrobe and note the pieces that have done you proud for season after season – you can bet your bottom dollar that those wardrobe treasures are quality fabrics. Also, take time to get the fit right. Try everything in front of a full-length mirror before you commit. I won’t even buy a pair of earrings without looking in a full-length mirror – it is essential to get a sense of the overall vibe.

What makes great knitwear stand out?

It’s the subtle details that give a knit class. A deeply ribbed hem and cuffs will add the visual interest that is the difference between understated chic and a sweater that’s a bit boring. In a longline knit, split-side hems are flattering and keep the line of your look clean and elegant. To add an element of drama, look for an interesting neckline. A tall funnel neck has a pleasing air of mystery to it, as well as keeping you cosy (dress it up with a pendant necklace). A scooped neck that shows a hint of collarbone has a subtle allure that is ideal for a cold-weather date night.

How about trousers? How do we find a pair that really works for us?

You know you’ve found your perfect trousers when they give you a reliable starting point to make every outfit work. A pair of trousers that suit your shape and are smart enough to transition from day to night are a base layer into which you can plug other elements: a crisp shirt, a simple tee, a soft sweater. If you are stuck in a style rut and want to update your wardrobe for 2025, try experimenting with a slightly more generous cut – a barrel leg, or a kick flare looks more modern than narrow trousers right now. Give it a go. You’ll be amazed at how it unlocks a more contemporary looking you, worn with pieces you already own.

Finally, what is your top style tip for this year?

Consider baby pink and butter yellow this spring – my top tips for colours that are going to be major in 2025. Also – hallelujah! – big bags were back on the catwalk in a big way, at Paris and Milan fashion weeks. After seasons of teeny-tiny bags, the capacious all-day tote is back. Cheering news for all of us with busy lives!

Jess Cartner-Morley is Associate Editor (Fashion) at “The Guardian”.

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The Thread

Find stories to inspire you, ideas from people we admire and our expertise for a home well curated, a wardrobe well put together, a life well lived.